The Must Of American Grapes
If we examine the must of most of our American wine grapes closely, we
find that they not only contain an excess of acids in inferior seasons,
but also a superabundance of flavor or aroma, and of tannin and
coloring matter. Especially of flavor, there is such an abundance that,
were the quantity doubled by addition of sugar and water, there would
still be an abundance; and with some varieties, such as the Concord, if
f
therefore, not only ameliorate the acid, but also the flavor and the
astringency, of which the tannin is the principal cause. Therefore it
is, that to us the knowledge of how to properly gallize our wines is
still more important than to the European vintner, and the results
which we can realize are yet more important. By a proper management, we
can change must, which would otherwise make a disagreeable wine, into
one in which everything is in its proper proportion, and which will
delight the consumer, to whose fastidious taste if would otherwise have
been repugnant. True, we have here a more congenial climate, and the
grapes will generally ripen better, so that we can in most seasons
produce a drinkable wine. But if we can increase the quantity, and at
the same time improve the quality, there is certainly an inducement,
which the practical business sense of our people will not fail to
appreciate and make use of.
There is, however, one difficulty in the way. I do not believe that the
acidimeter can yet be obtained in the country, and we must import them
direct from the manufacturers, DR. L. C. MARQUART, of Bonn, on the
Rhine; or J. DIEHN, Frankfort-on-the-Main.
However, this difficulty will soon be overcome; and, indeed, although
it is impossible to practice gallizing without a saccharometer, we may
get at the surplus of acids with tolerable certainty by the results
shown by the saccharometer. To illustrate this, I will give an example:
Last year was one of the most unfavorable seasons for the ripening of
grapes we have ever had here, and especially the Catawba lost almost
nine-tenths of its crop by mildew and rot; it also lost its leaves, and
the result was, that the grapes did not ripen well. When gathering my
grapes, upon weighing the must, I found that it ranged from 52 deg. to 70 deg.;
whereas, in good seasons, Catawba must weighs from 80 deg. to 95 deg.. I now
calculated thus: if normal must of Catawba should weigh at least 80 deg.,
and the must I have to deal with this season will weigh on an average
only 60 deg., I must add to this must about 1/2 lb. of sugar to bring it up
to 80 deg.. But now I had the surplus acid to neutralize yet. To do this, I
calculated thus: If, even in a normal Catawba must, or a must of the
best seasons, there is yet an excess of acid, I can safely count on
there being at least one-third too much acid in a must that weighs but
60 deg.. I, therefore, added to every 100 gallons of must 40 gallons of
soft water, in which I had first dissolved 80 lbs. of crushed sugar,
which brought the water, when weighed after dissolving the sugar in it,
up to 80 deg.. Now, I had yet to add 50 lbs., or half a pound to each
gallon of the original must, to bring _this_ up to 80 deg.. I thus pressed,
instead of 100 gallons, 150 gallons, from the same quantity of grapes;
and the result was a wine, which every one who has tasted it has
declared to be excellent Catawba. It has a brilliant pale yellow color,
was perfectly clear 1st of January, and sold by me to the first one to
whom I offered it, at a price which I have seldom realized for Catawba
wine made in the best seasons, without addition of sugar or water.
True, it has not as strong an aroma as the Catawba of our best seasons,
nor has it as much astringency; but this latter I consider an
advantage, and it still has abundant aroma to give it character.
Another experiment I made with the Concord satisfied me, without
question, that the must of this grape will always gain by an addition
of water and sugar. I pressed several casks of the pure juice, which,
as the Concord had held its leaves and ripened its fruit very well,
contained sugar enough to make a fair wine, namely, 75 deg.. This I
generally pressed the day after gathering, and put into separate casks.
I then took some must of the same weight, but to which I had added, to
every 100 gallons, 50 gallons of water, in which I had diluted sugar
until the water weighed 75 deg., or not quite two pounds of sugar to the
gallon of water, pressed also after the expiration of the same time,
and otherwise treated in the same manner. Both were treated exactly
alike, racked at the same time; and the result is, that every one who
tries the two wines, without knowing how they have been treated,
prefers the gallized wine to the other--the pure juice of the grape. It
is more delicate in flavor, has less acidity, and a more brilliant
color than the first, the ungallized must. They are both excellent, but
there is a difference in favor of the gallized wine.
DR. GALL recommends grape sugar as the best to be used for the purpose.
This is made from potato starch; but it is hard to obtain here, and I
have found crushed loaf sugar answer every purpose. I think this sugar
has the advantage over grape sugar, that it dissolves more readily, and
can even be dissolved in cold water, thus simplifying the process very
much. It will take about two pounds to the gallon of water to bring
this up to 80 deg., which will make a wine of sufficient body. The average
price of sugar was about 22 cents per pound, and the cost of thus
producing an additional gallon of wine, counting in labor, interest on
capital, etc., will be about 60 cents. When the wine can be sold at
from $2 to $3 per gallon, the reader will easily perceive of what
immense advantage this method is to the grape-grower, if he can thereby
not only improve the quality, but also increase the quantity of the
yield.
The efforts made by the Commissioner of Patents, and the contributors
to the annual reports from the Patent Office, to diffuse a general
knowledge of this process, can therefore not be commended too highly.
It will help much to bring into general use, among all classes, good,
pure, native wines; and as soon as ever the poorer classes can obtain
cheap agreeable wines, the use of bad whiskey and brandy will be
abandoned more and more, and this nation will become a more temperate
people.
But this is only the first step. There is a way to still further
increase the quantity. DR. GALL and others found, by analyzing the
husks of the grape after the juice had been extracted by powerful
presses, that they not only still contained a considerable amount of
juice, but also a great amount of extracts, or wine-making principles,
in many instances sufficient for three times the bulk of the juice
already expressed. This fact suggested the question: As there are so
many of these valuable properties left, and only sugar and water
exhausted, why cannot these be substituted until the others are
completely exhausted? It was found that the husks still contained
sufficient of acids, tannin, aroma, coloring matter, and gluten. All
that remained to be added was water and sugar. It was found that this
could be easily done; and the results showed that wine made in this
manner was equal, if not superior, to some of that made from the
original juice, and was often, by the best judges, preferred to that
made from the original must.
I have also practiced this method extensively the last season; and the
result is, that I have fully doubled the amount of wine of the Norton's
Virginia and Concord. I have thus made 2,500 gallons of Concord, where
I had but 1,030 gallons of original must; and 2,600 gallons of Norton's
Virginia, where I had but 1,300 gallons of must. The wines thus made
were kept strictly separate from those made from the original juice,
and the result is, that many of them are better, and none inferior, to
the original must; and although I have kept a careful diary of
wine-making, in which I have noted the process how each cask was made,
period of fermentation on the husks, quantity of sugar used, etc., and
have not hesitated to show this to every purchaser after he had tasted
of the wine, they generally, and with very few exceptions, chose those
which had either been gallized in part, or entirely.
My method in making such wines was very simple. I generally took the
same quantity of water, the husks had given original must, or in other
words, when I had pressed 100 gallons of juice, I took about 80 gallons
of water. To make Concord wine, I added 1-3/4 lbs. of sugar to the
gallon, as I calculated upon some sugar remaining in the husks, which
were not pressed entirely dry. This increased the quantity, with the
juice yet contained in the husks to 100 gallons, and brought the water
to 70; calculating that from 5 deg. to 10 deg. still remained in the husks, it
would give us a must of about 80 deg.. The grapes, as before remarked, had
been gathered during the foregoing day, and were generally pressed in
the morning. As soon as possible the husks were turned into the
fermenting vat again, all pulled apart and broken, and the water added
to them. As the fermentation had been very strong before, it
immediately commenced again. I generally allowed them to ferment for
twenty-four hours, and then pressed again, but pressed as dry as
possible this time. The whole treatment of this must was precisely
similar to that of the original.
In making Norton's Virginia, I would take, instead of 1-3/4 lbs., 2
lbs. of sugar to the gallon--as it is naturally a wine of greater body
than the Concord--and I aimed to come as near to the natural must as
possible. I generally fermented this somewhat longer, as a darker color
was desired. The time of fermentation must vary, of course, with the
state of the atmosphere; in cooler weather, both pressings should
remain longer on the husks. The results, in both varieties were wines
of excellent flavor, good body, a brilliant color, with enough of
tannin or astringency, and sufficient acid--therefore, in every way
satisfactory.
The experiments, however, were not confined to these alone, but
extended over a number of varieties, with good results in every case.
Of all varieties tried, however, I found that the Concord would bear
the most of gallizing, without losing its own peculiar flavor; and I
satisfied myself, that the quantity in this grape can safely be
increased _here_, from 100 gallons of must to 250 gallons of wine, and
the quality yet be better, than if the must had been left in its normal
condition.
And it is here again where only experience can teach us _how far_ we
can go with a certain variety. It must be clear and apparent to any one
who is ever so slightly acquainted with wine-making, how widely
different the varieties are in their characteristics and ingredients.
We may lay it down as a general rule, however, that our native grapes,
with their strong and peculiar flavors, and their superabundance of
tannin and coloring matter, will admit of much more gallizing, than the
more delicately flavored European kinds.
I have thus tried only to give an outline of the necessary operations,
as well as the principles lying at the foundation of them. I have also
spoken only of facts as I have found them, as I am well aware that this
is a field in which I have much to learn yet, and where it but poorly
becomes me to act the part of teacher. Those desiring more detailed
information, I would refer to the Patent Office Reports of 1859-60,
where they will find valuable extracts from the works of DR. GALL; and
also to the original works.
If we look at the probable effect these methods of improving wines are
likely to have upon grape-culture, it is but natural that we should ask
the question: Is there anything reprehensible in the practice--any
reason why it should not become general? The answer to this is very
simple. They contain nothing which the fermented grape juice, in its
purest and most perfect state does not also contain. Therefore, they
are as pure as any grape juice can be, with the consideration in their
favor, that everything is in the right proportion. Therefore, if wine
made from pure grape juice can be recommended for general use, surely,
the gallized wines can also be recommended. DR. GALL has repeatedly
offered to pay a fine for the benefit of the poor, if the most critical
chemical analysis could detect anything in them, which was injurious to
health, or which pure wines ought not to contain, and his opponents
have always failed to show anything of the kind.
I know that some of my wine-making friends will blame me for thus
"letting the cat out of the bag." They seem to think that it would be
better to keep the knowledge we have gained, to ourselves, carefully
even hiding the fact that any of our wines have been gallized. But it
has always been a deep-seated conviction with me, that knowledge and
truth, like God's sun should be the common property of all His
children--and that it is the duty of every one not to "hide his light
under a bushel," but seek to impart it to all, who could, perhaps, be
benefitted by it. And why, in reality, should we seek to keep as a
secret a practice which is perfectly right and justifiable? If there is
a prejudice against it, (and we know there is), this is not the way to
combat it. Only by meeting it openly, and showing the fallacy of it,
can we hope to convince the public, that there is nothing wrong about
it. Truth and justice need never fear the light--they can only gain
additional force from it. I do not even attempt to sell a cask of
gallized wine, before the purchaser is made fully acquainted with the
fact, that it has been gallized.
It is a matter of course, that many, who go to work carelessly and
slovenly, will fail to make good wine, in this or any other way. To
make a good article, the nature of each variety and its peculiarities
must be closely studied--we must have as ripe grapes as we can get,
carefully gathered; and we need not think that water and sugar will
accomplish _everything_. There is a limit to everything, and to
gallizing as well as to anything else. As soon as we pass beyond that
limit, an inferior product will be the result.
But let us glance a moment at the probable influence this discovery
will have on American grape culture. It cannot be otherwise than in the
highest degree beneficial; for when we simply look at grape-culture as
it was ten years ago, with the simple product of the Catawba as its
basis; a variety which would only yield an average of, say 200 gallons
to the acre--often very inferior wine--and look at it to-day, with such
varieties as the Concord, yielding an average of from 1,000 to 1,500
gallons to the acre, which we can yet easily double by gallizing, thus
in reality yielding an average of 2,500 gallons to the acre of
uniformly good wine; can we be surprised if everybody talks and thinks
of raising grapes? Truly, the time is not far distant--of which we
hardly dared to dream ten years ago--and which we _then_ thought we
would never live to see; when _every_ American citizen can indulge in a
daily glass of that glorious gift of God to man, pure, light wine; and
the American nation shall become a really _temperate_ people.
And there is room for all. Let every one further the cause of
grape-culture. The laborer by producing the grapes and wine; the
mechanic by inventions; the law-giver by making laws furthering its
culture, and the consumption of it; and _all_ by drinking wine, in wise
moderation of course.
More
-
Location And Soil
As the selection of a proper location is of vast importance, and one of the main conditions of success, great care and judgment should be exercised in the choice. Some varieties of grapes may be grown on almost any soil, it is true; but even they wi... Logan
Ripens about same time with Hartford Prolific--but rather inferior in quality. Bunch long, loose, shouldered; berry medium, oval; resembling Isabella. ... Louisiana (burgunder)
Introduced here by Mr. F. MUENCH, who received it from Mr. THEARD, of Louisiana, where it has been cultivated for some time. Some claim that it is the grape which makes the famous white Burgundy wine of Europe. I am inclined to think it is also a na... Making The Wine
As we have our apparatus all prepared now, we can commence the operation itself. This can be done in different ways, according to the class of wine we are about to make. To make white, or light-colored wine, the grapes which were gathered and mas... Manuring The Vine
As remarked before, this will seldom be necessary, if the vintner is careful enough to guard against washing of the top-soil, and to turn under all leaves, etc., with the plow in the Fall. The best manure is undoubtedly fresh surface soil from the w... Marion Port
Resembles the foregoing; may, perhaps, make a better wine, but cannot be recommended. ... Martha
This new grape, grown from the seed of the Concord, by that enthusiastic and warm-hearted horticulturist, SAMUEL MILLER, of Lebanon, Pa., promises to be one of the greatest acquisitions to our list of really hardy and good grapes, which have lately ... Mary Ann
The earliest grape we have--healthy, hardy and productive--but in point of quality, a rather poor Isabella, which it much resembles. Bunch full medium, moderately compact, shouldered; berry medium, oval, black, pulpy, with a good deal of acidity, ... Massachusetts White
This was sent me some eight years ago, by B. M. WATSON, as "the best and hardiest white grape in cultivation," and he charged me the moderate sum of $5 each, for small pot plants, with hardly two eyes of ripened wood. After careful nursing of three ... Maxatawney
Another very promising white grape--a strong grower, and healthy; may be somewhat too late in the east, but will, I think, be valuable at the West and South. Bunch medium to large---not shouldered; berry above medium; oval; pale yellow, with a sligh... Minor Seedling (venango)
This grape has attracted some attention lately--some persons claiming for it superior qualities as a _wine_ grape, even classing it with the Delaware, a statement which I cannot believe. It is a rank Fox, and I can therefore hardly think it will mak... Mode Of Operating
The wood should be cut from the vines in the fall, as soon as the leaves have dropped. For propagating, use only firm, well-ripened wood of the last season's growth, and about medium thickness. These are to be preferred to either very large or very ... Mode Of Operating
There are several methods, which are followed with more or less success. I will first describe that which I have found most successful, namely, short cuttings, of two or three eyes each, which are made of any sound, well ripened wood, of last season... Normal Must
"Experiments continued for a number of years have proved that, in favorable seasons, grape juice contains, on the average, in 1,000 lbs.: Sugar, 240 lbs. Acids, 6 " Water, 754 " ----- 1,000 " This proportion would co... North America
Early and hardy, but too unproductive, and bunch too small. Bunch small, shouldered; berry round; of very good quality for its season; black, juicy. Ripens as early as Hartford Prolific. ... North Carolina Seedling
Bunch large, shouldered, compact; berry large, oblong, black, with blue bloom; pulpy, but sweet and good; ripens only a few days after Hartford Prolific--very productive, hardy and healthy; strong grower. One of the most showy market grapes we have-... Northern Muscadine
Very productive and healthy, but too foxy, and liable to drop from the bunch when ripe. Bunch medium, compact, sometimes shouldered; berry round, brown, sweet, very foxy--pulpy. Ripens about five days later than Hartford Prolific. ... Norton's Virginia
This, so far, is the leading grape for red wine, and its reputation here and in the entire West is now so fully established, that it would be difficult indeed to persuade our people into the belief, that any other grape could make a better red wine.... Norton's Virginia (norton's Seedling Virginia Seedling)
Originated by DR. N. NORTON, of Richmond, Virginia. This grape has opened a new era in American grape culture, and every successive year but adds to its reputation. While the wine of the Catawba is often compared to Hock, in the wine of Norton's Vir... Oporto
Of all the humbugs ever perpetrated upon the grape-growing public, this is one of the most glaring. The vine, although a rank and healthy grower, is unproductive; seldom setting more than half a dozen berries on a bunch, and these are so sour, have ... Other Methods Of Training The Vine
There are many other systems in vogue among vine-dressers in Germany and France, but as our native grapes are so much stronger in growth, and are in this climate so much more subject to mildew and rot, I think these methods, upon the whole, but poor... Perkins
For those who do not object to a good deal of foxy flavor, this will be a valuable market grape, on account of its earliness, beautiful color, and great productiveness. Mr. FULLER has evidently not the true variety, as he describes it as a "black gr... Planting
The distance at which the vines may be planted will of course vary somewhat with the growth of the different varieties. The rows may all be six feet apart, as this is the most convenient distance for cultivating, and gives ample space for a horse ... Poeschel's Mammoth
Grown here, from seed of the Mammoth Catawba, by Mr. MICHAEL POESCHEL. Bunch medium, compact, sometimes shouldered; berry very large, round, pale red, pulpy; rather deficient in flavor, but very large; free from disease. Ripens a week later than C... Preparing The Soil
In this, the foundation of all grape-growing, the vineyardist must also look to the condition in which he finds the soil. Should it be free of stones, stumps, and other obstructions, the plough and sub-soil plough will be all-sufficient. Should y... Preserving The Fruit
For this purpose, the fruit must be thoroughly ripe. When fully ripe, the stem will turn brown, and shrivel somewhat. The fruit is then carefully gathered, and laid upon a dry floor, or shelves, for a day or two, so that some of the moisture will ev... Propagation Of The Vine
I.--FROM SEED. This would seem to be the most natural mode, were not the grape even more liable to sport than almost any other fruit. It is, however, the only method upon which we can depend for obtaining new and more valuable varieties than we... Remarks On Its History In America Especially At The West--its Progress And Its Future
In an old chronicle, entitled, "The Discovery of America in the Tenth Century," by CHARLES C. PRASTA, published at Stralsund, we find the following legend: "LEIF, son of ERIC the Red, bought BYARNES' vessel, and manned it with thirty-five men, ... Renewing Old Vines
Should a vine become old and feeble, it can be renewed by layering. The vine is prepared in the following manner: Prune all the old wood away, leaving but one of the most vigorous of your canes; then dig a trench from the vine along the trellis, say... Rogers' Hybrid No 1
This variety, which is also too late in ripening for the East, to be much esteemed there, fruited with me last season, and more than fulfilled all the expectations I entertained of it. It is the best of Mr. ROGERS' Hybrids, which I have yet tasted; ... Rogers' Hybrid No 15
Bunch large, loose, shouldered; berry above medium, red with blue bloom, roundish-oblong, pulpy, with peculiar flavor, sweet and juicy. A showy grape, but not very good in quality, and much subject to mildew and rot. Ripens at the same time with Cat... Rulander
Mr. FULLER evidently does not know this grape, as he says it is the same as Logan. The Rulander we have here, is claimed to be a true foreign variety. I am inclined to think, however, that it is either a seedling from foreign seed, raised in the cou... Taylor (bullitt)
This grape, under proper treatment, has proved very productive with me, and will make a wine of very high quality. The bunches and berries are small, it is true; but not much more so than the Delaware; it also sets its fruit well, and as it is hardy... The Acidimeter And Its Use
"The first instrument of this kind which came into general use, was one invented by DR. OTTO, and consists of a glass tube, from ten to twelve inches in length, half an inch in width, and closed at the lower end. Fig. 33 shows OTTO'S Acidimeter. ... The Change Of The Must By Fermentation Into Wine
Let us glance for a few moments at this wonderful, simple, and yet so complicated process, to give a clearer insight into the functions which man has to perform to assist Nature, and have her work for him, to attain the desired end. I cannot put the... The Concord
This grape seems to have given the most general satisfaction all over the country, and seems to be _the_ "grape for the million." Wherever heard from, it seems to be uniformly healthy and productive. Our Eastern friends complain of its inferior qual... The Must Of American Grapes
If we examine the must of most of our American wine grapes closely, we find that they not only contain an excess of acids in inferior seasons, but also a superabundance of flavor or aroma, and of tannin and coloring matter. Especially of flavor, the... The Must Scale Or Saccharometer
The most suitable one now in use is the _Oechsle's_ must scale, constructed on the principle that the instrument sinks the deeper into any fluid, the thinner it is, or the less sugar it contains. Fig. 32 shows this instrument, "which is generally ma... The Propagating House
I will only give a description of a lean-to of the cheapest kind, for which any common hot-bed sash, six feet long, can be used. Choose for a location the south side of a hill, as, by making the house almost entirely underground, a great deal of b... The Wine Casks
These should be made of well-seasoned white oak staves, and can, of course, be of various sizes to meet the wants of the vintner. The best and most convenient size for cellar use I have found to be about 500 gallons. These are sufficiently large to ... The Wine-cellar
As the wine-cellar and press-house are generally built together, I will also describe them together. A good cellar should keep about an even temperature in cold and warm weather, and should, therefore, be built sufficiently deep, arched over with st... Thinning Of The Fruit
This will sometimes be necessary, to more fully develop the bunches. The best thinning is the reduction of the number of bunches at the time of the first summer pruning. If a vine shows more fruit, than the vine dresser thinks it can well ripen, tak... Tokalon
Bunch large, loose, shouldered; berry black, large, sweet and buttery; of very good quality, but very much subject to disease. Ripens somewhat later than Catawba. ... Training The Vines On Arbors And Walls
This is altogether different from the treatment in vineyards; the first has for its object to grow the most perfect fruit, and to bring the vine, with all its parts, within the easy reach and control of the operator; in the latter, our object is to ... Treatment Of Flat And Turbid Wine
The cause of this is generally a want of Tannin. If the wine has a peculiar, flat, soft taste, and looks cloudy, this is generally the case. Draw the wine into another cask, which has been well sulphured, and add some pulverized tannin, which can be... Treatment Of The Vine The First Summer
The first summer after planting nothing is necessary but to keep the ground free from weeds, and mellow, stirring freely with hoe, rake, plough, and cultivator, whenever necessary. Should the vines grow strong they may be tied to the stakes provided... Treatment Of The Vine The Fourth Summer
We may now consider the vine as established, able to bear a full crop, and when tied to the trellis in spring, to present the appearance, as shown in Fig. 13. The operations to be performed are precisely the same as in its third year. In addition... Treatment Of The Vine The Second Summer
We find the young vine at the commencement of this season pruned to three buds of the last season's growth. From these we may expect from two to three strong shoots or canes. Our first work will be to cultivate the whole ground, say from four to six... Treatment Of The Vine The Third Season
At the commencement of the third season, we find our vine pruned to two spurs of two eyes each, and four lateral canes, of from four to six eyes each. These are tied firmly to the trellis as shown in Figure 12, for which purpose small twigs of willo... Union Village
Perhaps the largest native grape, of fair quality; bunch large, heavy and compact, shouldered; berry very large, oval, black, with blue bloom, pulpy, but juicy, sweet and good. Of better quality here than Isabella; tolerably free from disease, and a... Use Of The Husks And Lees
These should be distilled, and will make a very strong, fine flavored brandy. The husks are put into empty barrels or vats--stamped down close, and a cover of clay made over them, to exclude the air. They will thus undergo a fermentation, and be rea... Varieties Of Grapes
I would here, again remark, that I consider the question of "what to plant" as chiefly a local one, for which I do not presume to lay down fixed rules; but which every one must, to a certain extent, determine for himself, by visiting vineyards as ... Wine Making Made Easy
Some of my readers may think I did not look much to this, which I told them was one of the objects of this little work. To vindicate it and myself I will here state, that our object should always be to attain the highest perfection in everything. Bu...