Wine


The manufacture and use of wine in America, as has been intimated, is

likely to cease through prohibition. Therefore, whatever may be said

of this product of the grape is of less and less interest to

grape-growers. However, a few years of grace probably remain for the

making of wines in America, and since wine-making yet offers the

greatest outlet for the grape crop, next to table-grapes, wine must be

considered as a f
ctor in the grape industry.



Since the demand and price for grapes depend very largely on the kind

of wine to be made, it is necessary to characterize the wines made in

America. Wine, it should be said, is the product of alcoholic

fermentation of the grape. Alcoholic fermentations made from other

fruits are not, strictly speaking, wines. Natural wines are divided

into three broad groups; dry, sweet and sparkling wines. Dry wines are

those in which sugar has been eliminated by fermentation; sweet wines

those in which sufficient sugar remains to give a sweet taste; and

sparkling wines are those which contain sufficient carbonic acid gas

to give a pressure of several atmospheres in the bottle. The carbonic

acid gas is produced in sparkling wines by fermentation in the bottle

of a dry wine.



The color in these three classes of wine may be red or white,

depending on whether or not the color is extracted from the skins in

the process of fermentation. To make red wine, of course, the grapes

to be fermented must have red coloring matter in skin or juice or

both. Each of these groups of wine includes a very large number of

kinds distinguished by the name of the region, the locality or the

name of the vineyard in which a wine is made. Wines are still further

distinguished according to the year of the vintage.



Wine-making.



There are four distinct stages in the making of wine after the grapes

are grown. The first is the harvesting of the grapes when they have

reached the proper stage of maturity, which is known as "wine-making

ripeness." This stage of ripeness is determined by means of a

must-scale or saccharometer. The wine-maker squeezes the juice from a

number of bunches of grapes into a receptacle into which he drops the

must-scale, whereupon the sugar-content of the juice is indicated on

the scale, determining whether the proper stage of ripeness has been

reached. Suitable varieties of grapes having been grown, it is

necessary that they be permitted to hang on the vine until the proper

degree of ripeness is developed, after which they are delivered at the

winery as free as possible from injury or decay.



The second stage is the preparation of the grapes for fermentation.

The grapes are weighed on arriving at the winery and are then conveyed

either by hand or more often by a mechanical conveyor to the hopper or

crusher. The ancient method of crushing, which still prevails in some

parts of Europe, was to tramp the grapes with bare feet or wooden

shoes. Tramping has been superseded by mechanical crushers which break

the skin but do not crush the seeds. The best mechanical crushers

consist of two-grooved revolving cylinders. As the grapes pass through

the crusher, they fall into the stemmer, a machine which tears off the

stems, discharging them at one end, while the seeds, skins, pulp and

juice pass through the bottom to the presses usually on the floor

below. There are several types of wine-presses, all of which, however,

are modifications of screw, hydraulic or knuckle-joint power. In large

wineries, the hydraulic press has almost driven out the other two

forms of power and when great quantities of grapes must be handled a

number of hydraulic presses are usually in operation. The grape

pomace is built up into a "cheese" by the use of cloths and racks

variously arranged. The "cheese" is then put under heavy pressure from

which the juice or "must" is quickly extracted.



The third stage is fermentation. The "must" is carried from the press

into open tanks or vats which hold from 500 to 5000 gallons or even

more. The yeast cells which cause fermentation may be introduced

naturally on the skins of the grapes; or in many modern wineries the

"must" is sterilized to rid it of undesirable micro-organisms and a

"starter" of "wine-yeast" is added to start the fermentation. Yeast

organisms attack the sugar and must, breaking it up into alcohol and

carbonic acid gas, the latter passing off as it is formed. When active

fermentation ceases, the new wine is drawn from the pomace and is put

into closed casks or tanks where it undergoes a secondary

fermentation, much sediment settling at the bottom of the cask. To rid

the new wine of this sediment, it must be drawn off into clean casks,

an operation called "racking." The first racking usually takes place

within a month or six weeks. A second racking is necessary at the end

of the winter and a third is desirable in the summer or fall.



The fourth stage is the aging of the wine. Before aging begins,

however, the wine usually must be rendered perfectly clear and bright

by "fining." The materials used in fining are isinglass, white of egg

or gelatine. These, introduced into the wine, cause undissolved

matters to precipitate. The wine is now ready for bottling or

consumption. Most wines acquire a more desirable flavor through

"aging," a slow oxidation in the bottles.



Champagne.



When champagne wines have gone through their first fermentation, they

are racked off into casks to age until their quality can be

ascertained, after which a blend of several different wines is made.

This blend is called the "cuvee." The cuvee is bottled and a second

fermentation starts. The bottles are now put in cool cellars, corded

in horizontal layers with thin strips of wood between each layer of

bottles. The champagne in this stage is said to be in "tirage." The

carbonic acid gas generated at this second fermentation is confined in

the bottles and absorbed by the wine. When the bottle is uncorked, the

gas, seeking to escape, produces the sparkling effect desirable in

sparkling wines. After the wine has been in tirage for one or two

years, the bottles are placed in A-shaped racks, the neck of the

bottle pointing downward so that the sediment formed during

fermentation drops to the cork. To further the settling of the

sediment, workmen turn or shake each bottle daily for a period of one

to three months. The bottles are then taken to the finishing room,

cork down and the wine is "disgorged." Disgorging is accomplished by

freezing a small quantity of wine in the neck of the bottle containing

the sediment, after which the cork is removed and with it the frozen

sediment. The bottle is refilled, recorked, wired, capped, and the

champagne is ready for shipment.



The vintage.



The wine-making season the world over is known as the "vintage." The

time at which the vintage begins depends, of course, on the region,

the variety of grapes, the growing season and the location of the

vineyard. Its duration, also, depends on these same factors. The

season is usually lengthened by the fact that wine-makers require for

their purposes a number of varieties of grapes which ripen at

different times. Before or during the vintage, representatives of wine

cellars usually make contracts for the number of tons of grapes

required at a certain price a ton.



The notion prevails that grapes for wine and grape-juice need not be

first-class. This is far from the truth. To make good wine the grapes

must be carefully harvested, transported with as little injury as

possible and must be protected from dirt, mold and fermentation before

reaching the winery. European vintagers maintain that grapes picked at

sunrise produce the lightest and most limped wines and yield more

juice. They say, also, that the grapes should not be gathered in the

heat of the day because fermentation sets in at once. These niceties

are not observed in America.



Prices paid for wine grapes.



Supply and demand regulate the price paid for wine grapes. There is

always demand for good wine grapes, although a poor product often goes

begging for market. In the East, the highest prices are paid for the

grapes used in making champagne. The champagne region of the East is

confined to a few localities along Lake Erie and to western New York

about Keuka Lake, where the industry is most largely developed. The

varieties used in champagne-making in the East are Delaware, Catawba,

Elvira, Dutchess, Iona, Diamond and a few other sorts. Prices differ

with the many conditions affecting the grape and champagne industries,

perhaps the average price for Catawba, the grape chiefly used in

making champagne in this region, being from $40 to $50 a ton. Choicer

grapes, as Delaware, Iona and Dutchess, often sell from $75 to $100 a

ton. Concords are sometimes utilized in making dry wines in the

eastern states, $30 or $40 a ton being the average price. Ives and

Norton are much used for red wines and sell for top prices.



Wine-makers in the East are at a disadvantage in producing wines other

than champagne, since the price paid on the Pacific slope for wine

grapes is much lower; Grapes for sweet wine in California often sell

as low as $6 or $7 a ton, the average price being $10 or $12. Grapes

for dry wines, such as Zinfandel and Burger, bring on the Pacific

coast from $10 to $12 a ton. Choice varieties of grapes in this

region, such as Cabernet, Sauvignon, Petite Sirah and Riesling, bring

from $22 to $24. The eastern wine-makers, however, have the advantage

of being close to the largest and best markets in the country. Wines

made in the East are very different from those made in California and

supply a different market.



A few years ago most of the Muscadine grapes grown in the South were

used for wine-making. From these grapes wine has been made since

colonial times, and for a century there have been some large vineyards

of Muscadine grapes in the South from which wine was made in a

commercial way. Since Muscadine grapes do not sell well in the markets

in competition with the grapes of the North or the Pacific slope, the

Muscadine grape industry has been dependent on the wine industry of

the section in which the fruit is produced. The growth of prohibition

in the South, however, has driven the wine industry to the North and

West and there is now little wine manufactured from Muscadine grapes

in the South, although some grapes are shipped North for wine-making.

The wine made from these grapes is very distinct in flavor and on that

account a special trade has been developed for it. It is possible that

this special trade will keep up the demand for Muscadine wine so that

some part of the crop may be shipped to wine-making states to supply

this demand.



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